The All-Black issue

The bible of the fashion world–Vogue–has many incarnations in a number of countries across the globe. There are a few issues during the year that garner press, most notably the thick September issue of the US edition. That usually boasts nearly one thousand pages filled with advertisements galore from various designers–Louis Vuitton, Zac Posen, Gucci, and Prada, to name a few. Top models (not to be confused with Tyra’s show) are found on page after page, striking fierce pose after fierce pose. Well, the July issue of one of Vogue’s cousins–Vogue’s Italian cousin, to be exact–has been in the news as of late. Why? Because it will be the magazine’s first all-black issue.

In response to the cry of “Where have all the black models gone?” Italian Vogue has answered, “Here they are!” The hope is that other fashion magazines will follow suit. Two of the models who will reportedly be in the issue are Ajuma Nasenyana, the leggy Kenyan model who walked in Martin Grant’s Spring 2008 and Vivienne Westwood’s Fall 2008 shows, and seventeen-year-old British stunner, Jourdan Dunn. Jourdan Dunn being chosen for the cover spot is unsurprising. She recently made headlines as the first black model since Naomi Campbell (who walked in 1997) to walk the runway during Prada’s Fall 2008 show. Since Naomi’s reign, it seems as though black models have fallen off. The move to create this issue comes from the dearth of black models that were seen (or not seen, as the case may be) during the Spring/Summer 2008 and Fall/Winter 2008 shows.

The question that has yet to be answered is why do so few designers book black models. A sufficient answer has not been given. Dame Vivienne Westwood, one of my favorite designers alongside Alexander McQueen, Martin Grant, and Tracy Reese, commented that the blatant disregard for hiring black models borders on racism. Her solution to the problem was to feature Ajuma in several ads. Aside from the fact that she creates far out designs that I find quite artistic, I knew there was a reason why I liked Dame Westwood.

What saddens me most about this is that US Vogue’s editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, she who was the inspiration (supposedly) for The Devil Wears Prada and who no doubt considers herself and her baby on the cutting edge, wasn’t the first to come up with the all-black issue. What makes it doubly worse is that her right hand, Andre Leon Talley, is black. C’mon, Andre! As a black man in the fashion world, he should definitely know and understand the struggle.

The Italian issue with Jourdan on the cover should be out towards the end of June. Be sure to look for it at a local Borders or Barnes & Noble. I, for one, can not wait.

Tagged as: racism

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Sara